Niseko Resort, located in Hokkaido, Japan, is famous for its exceptional powder and varied terrain suitable for all skill levels. It’s part of the Niseko United ski area, providing access to multiple interconnected resorts. This guide will cover everything you need to know, from flights, how to get there, how to do it with a child, the ski runs and accommodation to dining and nightlife, ensuring you have the ultimate winter sports experience.

Who We Are

Our names are Mark and Sarah and we happen to love snowboarding. So much so that we decided to bring our 11.9 month old half way across the world to experience Hokkaido, Niseko and everything Japan (Japow) had to offer. We received a tremendous amount of requests asking questions on how we did it, not only with a child, but for adults who may know nothing about this process. Japan is easily the most common 'bucket list' destinations for skiers/ snowboarders alike and we wanted to make this process easier. I (Mark) spend months researching and talking to industry experts on where to go, how to do it, and the best time of year. The funny thing is, it's REALLY hard to find anyone who has/ had a child who actually went to Japan and fulfilled their Japan snowboarding dream. So, this is our best effort to make that dream a reality. This is all of our unbiased suggestions/ reviews aside from where we rented gear (Rhythm Japan). They hooked us up with rentals but to be honest, were absolutely incredible with their selection, staff, ease of trading out boards, etc (More on that later).

How We Decided on Niseko and Other Resorts?

If you look up Hokkaido and where you should snowboard/ ski, you will get a dozen different answers. The truth is, Niseko is VERY westernized. So much so that our Japanese friends call it 'Little Australia'. After being there for a week we can confirm, there are indeed many Australians and Westerners. But, when you have a 1 year old who needs some resemblance of comfort, stability and routine, Niseko is the best choice. To save you some time, these were the other resorts that we considered (and still plan to visit some day).

• Furano

• Rusutsu (close to Niseko)

• Kiroro

• Hoshino

• Asahikawa

• Nagano

• Hakuba

Keep in mind, there are (were) 450 ski resorts in Japan so it's literally endless. The other reason we chose Niseko is due to the quality of snow. Granted, most everything you will find on Hokkaido will be world class but we kept hearing about how light/ fluffy the snow was at Niseko and let me tell you, we weren't disappointed.

Passports Required

Yes, as Americans we do need passports to travel to/ from Japan. It's a free entry for 90 days but passports can take time to acquire (especially for a newborn). Make sure to double check the expiration on yours if you already have one, many places won't let you in if it's 6 months to expiring. In regards to getting one for a newborn child, the process is really easy, just follow directions HERE, seriously just follow the directions. We obtained our passport photos from Walgreens who were very accommodating and knew what to do. They perform dozens of these daily so just ask them.

Overview of Niseko Hirafu Ski Resort

Not going to lie, this paragraph was created by AI but I laugh every time I read it because the language is so eloquent. I wish I wrote this but you get the idea...

Situated in the central region of Hokkaido, the Niseko Hirafu Ski Resort is an integral component of the esteemed Niseko United ski area. This consortium consists of four interlinked ski resorts known for delivering top-notch skiing and snowboarding pleasures within the broader niseko expanse. The resort enjoys widespread acclaim across Japan as well as on a global scale, celebrated for its picturesque vistas, lively village ambiance, and comprehensive range of services.

With its exceptional quality powder snow that draws enthusiasts from all over to engage in winter sports activities like skiing and snowboarding, Hirafu Ski Resort stands out during wintertime. Its combination of copious amounts of fresh snowfall with skillfully groomed trails ensures that each journey down their slopes remains exhilaratingly smooth yet challenging enough for any level rider or skier looking to indulge themselves amidst this pristine powder heaven at Niseko Hirafu.

By being strategically positioned within the vast network constituting Niseko United’s multiple ski areas, it provides ample opportunity to traverse extensive stretches catering specifically to winter sport aficionados. Complete with world-renowned facilities against a backdrop teeming with splendid natural charm. There’s no doubt why travelers regard Niseko Hirafu resort among the best in the world.

The Niseko United Includes:

• Annupuri

• Niseko Village

• Grand Hirafu (Our favorite)

• Hanazono

• It DOES NOT INCLUDE Moiwa

Choosing Flights and Snow Timeline

Choosing flights can be a pain because everyone is looking for the best deal. There is really no formula here, just do your research. Personally, I love Google flights as it's easy to use, tells me historical prices, allows me to set alarms and doesn't spam me with dozens of advertisements. I was told about Zipair, a budget travel airline that has lay down sleeping seats direct to Japan. These sell out quickly but they have the cheapest prices available. Unfortunately, they dont allow children to use the bed seats so that sucks... Unfortunately, we had to use Chase Travel because of our points and we would definitely NOT RECOMMEND. Our travel was a nightmare and our return flight ended up being cancelled when all I wanted was a bassinet for our son. Long story short, the ended up taking responsibility and promising a bassinet (which was a lie) leading to a late arrival in LA and missing our connecting flight... We flew Japan Airlines on the way there and it was alright, nothing really stood out. If you asked me to choose between United and JA, I would say the staff on JA was superior but food/ movie selection much better on United.

You can look up historical snowfall HERE and you can see that late December/ early January are the most consistent powder days. This year (2024/2025) had a record 68 year December snowfall and January popped off! Unfortunately, the snow stopped upon our departure January 19 and apparently it became bone dry/ rain for weeks... There is one thing we can all agree upon, we cannot control Mother Nature and you are always rolling the dice when it comes to snowboard vacations.

Tokyo Narita Versus Tokyo Haneda

There is a big difference between these two airports in Tokyo so pay attention to the name! Narita is the older airport that takes a majority of the arrivals and is about 45 minutes east of Tokyo proper. Haneda is the newer, younger brother located 45 minutes south of Tokyo proper. Most of the local, domestic flights will fly out of Haneda (like to Sapporo) so pay attention when you purchase your flights. I made the mistake of buying a return ticket to Haneda versus Narita when flying back to the USA and I am glad I caught this!

Child on Airplane Tips

We were terrified to travel 10 hours with an 11.9 month old... It really changes your perspective being a parent with a baby on an airplane. Suddenly, you become the dreaded passenger that no one wants to sit by. I do think its every parents nightmare having a screaming child on a long haul flight. To be honest, this may not be appropriate for every child, especially if they are not used to this kind of stimulation. Im happy/ proud to say our son Dawson did incredible on all 6 flights there and back. Lastly, keep your expectations low. If your child crushes the flight, that's incredible. If not, at least you were mentally prepared for it.

• Be patient with your partner and have a full meal prior to the flight. It may be a long 10+ hours so you both need to prepare for that. Take turns if you can!

• Depending on the age of your child, ask for a bassinet seat. They proritize these for children and it provides a small bed and leg room for the parent. These are SO hard to get but it's worth a try.

• Talk to the front desk staff and on flight staff, they will more than likely be accommodating to your situation. They see kids on flights all the time and know what to do.

• Most airlines will allow pre flight baggage like strollers, car seats so it's all free. Some airlines allow your car seat on plane but Japan Airlines requires the base so keep that in mind.

• If you cannot obtain a bassinet, purchase a seat for your child (if you can afford it). This was truly a game changer for us and would have been a nightmare if our son had to be a lap child for 10 hours.

• Request to be seated together and make a fort out of the blanket in the middle seat. It will provide a 'quiet' space for the child and block the light/ sound (to a degree).

• Buy $1 toys from Target and wrap them up, release one every hour. They will most likely love the paper versus the toy but 10 minutes of distraction adds up!

• Bring their bedtime clothing (whatever that looks like) as you want to create as close of an environment to home as possible. This is not the time to try new things.

• Bring snacks and lots of them. Avoid sugars as it will give them energy but a full baby is a happy baby.

• If nursing, do it during take off and landing. If they have a pacifier, provide it at the same time.

• If they are already watching screens/ tablets, these can be good distractions for the flight.

• If you are going to medicate (not advocating), try it before the flight. There are a percentage of the population that actually get energy from medicines like Benadryl.

Adjusting To The Time Difference For a Child

The West Coast USA and Japan are +17 hours apart. For an adult this can be challenging but for a child, this is so confusing. Every child is going to be different adjusting but give yourself some grace. We found that adjusting to the time going West was much more difficult. Be patient with yourself and partner but nothing can truly prepare you for those early mornings. The first night our son was wide awake at 1:30am, the second night 2:30am and the third at 4:30am. Take naps during the day, take turns and again be patient. Some people said you can start practicing prior to leaving by going to bed earlier, etc but we just sent it... Coming home was much easier and we really only had one night of early waking up. Just remember, thousands of parents/ children do this daily and so can you!

How to Ride With a Child?

Easy, take turns! We do the same thing back home at Mt. Bachelor. One person rides the first 1-2 hours, while the other watches our son. Once they return, the one watching is ready to go and quickly slips out for their 1-2 hour ride. Just be grateful you are riding because the days of an early 5am arrival, riding into the late afternoon are over. We also realized that we can no longer put ourselves in the shoes of those who are single or without children. Im sure this equation will get ever more complex when/ if we decide to have another. The other option is daycare if you have the means and feel like it's a necessity. There were daycare options in Niseko and we actually talked to an Australian couple who were using a local babysitter to watch their 9 month old who came to their cabin. 

The Golden Question: To Rent or Bring Your Beloved Snowboard? Rhythm Japan

We struggled with this question for a long time. You expect Japan to be dumping (and it was) and more than likely you have a favorite board in your quiver you have been dreaming about slashing Japow with. We decided between Dawsons suitcase, stroller, car seat, Diaper bag, and our own gear/ clothing it just wasn't worth the hassle of bringing our own gear. If you do decide to bring your own, there are services like Yamato (Black Cat) or ShipSkis that will ship your board from home or from the airport in Tokyo to your hotel in Hokkaido. It's really easy to do and we saw so many people having their gear delivered while walking around in Grand Hirafu. Double check with the airlines on the cost involved, especially from Tokyo to Hokkaido. We also talked to many people who were hit with heavy fees due to assuming their gear was going to be loaded for free.

Like went mentioned above, there is no wrong or right choice to renting versus bringing your own gear. Bringing your own gear requires that you haul it through the airports, shuttles, trains an possibly pay extra based on your airline. Renting provides unfamiliar equipment and there is a cost involved. I can say with honesty that we were so happy with our rentals at Rhythm Japan. The process was seamless online and we walked in with our QR code, it printed a ticket and we stepped in line. The process of choosing a board was so fun and an employee named Jack was so knowledgable. He brought out several options based on our riding styles, preferences, and snow conditions. Sarah landed with a Capita while I chose a local company called OffShore. Because we chose the premium option, we could at any point skip the line and trade in our snowboards to try something new. Keep in mind, the most popular boards are often gone in common dimensions (152-158cm) but their selection is HUGE! We would recommend Rhythm to anyone and it seemed like half the mountain was using their equipment. We also found out it's now owned by Evo so it has the knowledge, history and industry presence.

How to Get There (USA to Niseko)

We flew from Bend, OR --> Seattle layover --> Tokyo Narita arrival at 3:30pm. That's a long day of travel with a 1 year old. Most people will take the train from Narita to Tokyo which takes 53 minutes. Because we had our little one, were severely deprived of sleep and eager to get to our hotel we decided on a private taxi. We used Klook which was a seamless process and the driver was ready for us messaging through WhatsApp. Now, this is not for everyone but if you can swing it, we highly recommend using a taxi, especially when you have screaming children who are ready to sleep. The nice thing about Japan is most signs are in English since the Olympics were held there. Getting to Haneda is the same situation, we used Klook and it was a seamless process. Downtown Tokyo takes about 50 minutes to get to Haneda.

Make This Trip The Best Ever By Training Properly

Train System in Tokyo

It's a very easy, but daunting process using the trains in Japan. This was a great guide on how to use the systems efficiently before you arrive.

How to Get From Tokyo to Hokkaido

Similar to above, there is a train system that takes from Tokyo to Sapporo but there are several transfers from shuttles and trains. You can learn more here on how to do this. Again, we had an infant so we chose to fly which is actually really affordable. As mentioned above, most flights will be out of Haneda and are local companies like ANA and JetStar. Keep in mind, if Hokkaido is dumping, there can be many cancellations/ delays with your flight so stay flexible. Also, these budget airlines are VERY strict with what's allowed and will charge you for the smallest thing. Dont get mad at the airline, read the fine print and understand they they're just doing their jobs.New Chitose Airport is the main airport on Hokkaido and is about 45 minutes SE from Sapporo. Keep this in mind when scheduling.

Transportation from New Chitose Airport to Niseko

The most popular way (by far) is to take the bus system from the airport to your destination in Niseko. This takes about 3.5 Hours and needs to be booked ahead of time (or risk booking at airport). The cost is around $60 USD one way. Everyone will have a board bag so dont be concerned with how much luggage you may have. Again, because we had a young child we chose to take a private taxi which we set up with our accommodation. This was not cheap and we paid close to $300 one way (for up to 6 people). The other option is to rent a car/ van which I would probably choose to do next time. I was told car rentals need to be completed at the airport and cannot be done while in Niseko. Im assuming it would not be that expensive but you do need your International Drivers Permit and snow driving skills. The signs are easy to follow and straightforward directions getting to Niseko.

Accommodation Options

Again, below was written by AI but there's a a lot of truth here. We only have experience with the Hirafu region as that's where we stayed. We used Hotel Niseko Izumikyo which was expensive, but awesome. Keep in mind, we booked last minute so all of the 'affordable' and 'close' options were booked months in advance (hint hint). The cottage itself was a little rugged and a baby death trap but we were about 1 mile walking distance from Grand Hirafu Gondolas. This area also happens to be home to many employees that work on the mountain. Definitely do you research on where to to stay. Hirafu is absolutely the most lively of the options with most food, bars, shopping, etc. We almost stayed in Niseko village which is a bit more isolated.

Enscoring yourself in comfortable and convenient accommodation after a lively day skiing or snowboarding is paramount. Hirafu Village caters to this need with an array of lodging choices, ranging from opulent chalets and practical apartments to hotels offering the convenience of ski-out options, ensuring every taste and financial plan is accommodated.

For those eager to spend as much time as possible on the slopes, Upper Hirafu presents itself as an ideal location due to its proximity to the ski lifts. It’s particularly suitable for families. At the heart of activity lies Middle Hirafu, pulsating with life through its various dining establishments, nightlife spots, and diverse housing options.

If serenity is what you seek, Lower Hirafu provides a peaceful retreat predominantly featuring chalets that strike a balance between value and easy shuttle lift access for skiing excursions. For luxury seekers seeking expansive lodgings within arm’s reach of village conveniences, Hirafu Izumikyo delivers. Meanwhile, East Hirafuis is celebrated for its cost-effective accommodations, but requires guests to trade-off immediate lift accessibility.

Free Bus System

There is a free bus system within the Hirafu and surrounding areas. Keep in mind it can fill up really quickly (20 person max) and many participants are carrying gear/ luggage which you inconveniently have to squeeze into a tiny bus seat. You can find out more here and see where it stops/ picks you up. When this stops running, there is a night bus system that apparently works well. You can also use the GPS website to see how close the bus is to you so you are not waiting in the snow for 30 minutes (hint hint).

Food and Dining Options

There are MANY restaurants in the Grand Hirafu area but sadly, most take reservations. If you decide you want to eat out, be prepared to wait upwards of 2+ hours for a table (hint hint). Research which ones are walk in reservation versus online. There are food trucks available and there is always 7/11 and Lawsons available which we used a lot. Dont underestimate the convenience store food as it's constantly rotating to be kept fresh and decently healthy. Casey Willax raves about Elvis and his Kabab food truck so check that out. We ate at a Korean BBQ, Soup Curry spot which were delicious. Learn more here about the dining options available.

Buying Niseko Lift Tickets - Niseko United All Mountain Pass

Super easy process! Buy online here and go to the kiosk inside any lodge for a printed card. It's that easy! Remember, Moiwa is not included on this United Pass!

Onsens (Hot Springs)

Unfortunately, I wish we could say we dabbled with the Onsens but we simply didn't have the time/ capacity to do so. However, our friends did participate and said it was a lovely experience. There are several available. Learn more here

Keep in mind, most are sectioned off Male/ Female and are fully nude. Depending on the Onsen, several are strict with no tattoos visible policy.

Kids Activities

We noticed a few kids activities aside from skiing/ snowboarding available. This guide has several activities available if you have an older child who wants something else to do.

Ski & Ride School

We noticed a lot of newer snowboarders on the hill and instructors from all over the world. It seemed like their ski & ride school was dialed and easy to follow. The 'bunny hill' was packed but I didn't see anything that stood out in a negative way. You can learn more here on pricing, availability, etc. Make sure to choose the correct resort that you are staying closest to. There is a bus system that connects but it would be a pain to book at a resort that's further away.

Niseko Hirafu Ski Resort caters not only to the pros, but also to families and beginners. The resort’s ski schools are renowned for their quality instruction for all ages. GoSnow stands out with specialized ski lessons for children of various skill levels.

Programs like Ninja Kids and Yama Riders offer engaging and fun skiing experiences tailored for young learners. Group lessons help children ski with peers, enhancing their skills while making new friends. Private lessons are available for those seeking personalized attention, offering focused skill development in a safe environment.

Extensive Terrain and Powder

Imagine gliding over the untouched powder of Hokkaido’s tranquil mountainsides. The Niseko Hirafu Ski Resort comprises four interlinked ski areas: Grand Hirafu, Hanazono, Niseko Village, and An’nupuri. Each offers distinct terrains for a variety of experiences including those found at niseko tokyu grand hirafu. With 22 designated trails and a significant vertical reach of 940 meters, this expansive skiing area ensures endless fun for even expert snowboarders.

The winter season here stretches from December through April where the resort is blessed with an average annual snowfall exceeding 15 meters and showcases an astounding vertical descent of 1,308 meters—creating perfect conditions that make Niseko Hirafu a haven for aficionados of powder snow. This exceptional quality has made skiing and snowboarding in the region highly coveted pursuits. Skiers are treated to magnificent vistas featuring Mt. Yotei while carving down powdery bowls or navigating tree-lined routes.

For those who crave excitement beyond groomed pistes, Niseko Hirafu provides legendary terrain ripe for off-piste challenges amidst trees which attract advanced skiers and riders seeking thrilling escapades on their boards or skies alike — whether tackling well-marked paths or exploring untamed backcountry spots across this incredible landscape promises moments you won’t soon forget.

Backcountry Terrain and Off Piste Adventures

Niseko Hirafu serves as a haven for those seeking the thrills of Japan’s most captivating backcountry and off-piste skiing experiences. Since 1999, with endorsement from local and national authorities, the resort has established a distinctive system that allows adventurers to delve into its off-piste areas via 11 backcountry gates accessible by lift. These entryways unlock extraordinary opportunities for exhilarating pursuits.

The network of lifts connects seamlessly with neighboring ski zones, offering an expanded playground beyond the boundaries of marked pistes. This makes Niseko renowned among proficient skiers and snowboarders who are on the hunt for intense slopes and virgin powder.

Whether it involves gliding through waist-deep snow or descending precipitous trails, Niseko Hirafu promises a peerless journey into off-piste territory. It is here where enthusiasts can push their abilities to new heights while experiencing an unparalleled surge of excitement.

Night Skiing Experience

Experiencing night skiing at Niseko Hirafu is an essential activity. The resort is renowned for having one of the largest areas dedicated to night skiing in Japan, ensuring all 12 courses are well-lit and inviting after sundown. Skiers can take advantage of this from 4:00 p.m. until 7:00 p.m., thereby enriching their time on the slopes.

For those new to skiing, night sessions offer a beneficial setting as the lighting accentuates any irregularities in the terrain, aiding in smoother navigation. As you descend along trails bathed in light, witness a picturesque nocturnal view over Hirafuzaka that will enhance your alpine escapade.

Summary

I can truly say we had an incredible time while in Japan. We brought our 1 year old son and had the opportunity to experience Japow at its very best. I would not hesitate to do it again and encourage every single person to do the same (if you can). I have found there are often very few regrets when it comes to world travel, let alone snowboarding some the best powder out there.